Saturday 2 October 2010

The Wheel House

The Wheel House in Falmouth is a fine example of less is more, in every respect. A friend of mine went to review it, was given plates of free food and was then politely told by the owner if they could write about somewhere else because the place was full of locals every night, and that suited them just fine, (so i am going to spin this as an interior review). The place is simply a collection of stuff, almost like the owners had started gathering/finding for the place and opened when they had enough furniture. The menu is limited, scallops or oysters (depending on the season),  crab (3 kinds last night), mussels (2 ways), and prawns (2 ways), skinny fries, side salad and White or Red wine. That's it. So, how can such an amazing atmosphere and environment be created with so little. It is amazing how hugely food can inform a space, the ambience and character. Its because of the nature of shellfish, (astonishingly well cooked with lashings of butter and garlic) coupled with the small interior, there is just no where to hide. You have to get invovled, get messy. It's quite grotesque (even carnal) in a way, but everyone is breaking crabs, beheading prawns, mopping up mussel stock and generally making a lot of noise getting covered (and covering people) in food. It is hugely successful for that reason, its SO basic, but so emotionally enriching for that.

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